3D Printing: Lominsan Escutcheon

posted in: 3D Printing, Prop | 0

Lightning has always been a favorite character of mine, but after making Pyrrha’s shield, I knew worbla would be difficult to get smooth, and there were a lot of details.. So I modeled and printed it!


(She’s so cute!)

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Gameplay from Lightning Returns: Final Fantasy XIII spotlighting the Eorzean weapons from XIV.


The shield in it’s original game, the MMO Final Fantasy XIV.


While a costume may be recognizable on its own, I love having the finishing counterparts. I knew the shield wouldn’t be too terrible to model (since it was essentially an 8-slice pizza with notches) and the cutlass was commissioned from Sweatshop 202. I had about 2 days to get everything done, dry and ready to pack–so let’s go!

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The first of 8 pizza slices. You can see the extruded notches that were used to interlock the segments into a full circle. This also allows for an easier gluing process during assembly since the pieces would latch onto each other. There is also a negative extrusion on the bottom-side.

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Slathering it up in auto body filler/Bondo to fill the cracks and fix a lot of the banding on the print. Since I knew I would be covering it anyway, this print was done at pretty low quality.

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I used a palm sander at 150-220 grit before hand sanding up to 400. The ornamental pieces on the side were also printed, glued in 2 pieces and sealed/sanded before priming with Rustoleum gray spray primer. They were extruded based off of a raster-turned-vector image I drew over screen captures of the shield in-game. A really handy trick to make geo that doesn’t need a low or animation-friendly poly count!

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Here’s the centerpiece of the shield. While I am unfamiliar with Lominsa and the world of Eorzea from Final Fantasy XIV, I still wanted to do a good job with authenticity. Like the rest of the designs, this was extruded in Maya after importing a vector image made in Illustrator. This was printed, filled and sanded while everything else was primed and drying.

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Raising the letters off the build-plate and gluing them down without messing up their placement was a difficult task. I used another sheet of blue tape that’s used to line the build-plate to hold them (right side facing the tape) while I peeled them from the base. The ship piece was coated in black primer and left at that–not everything needs paint to look finished. Things are just about ready to be painted, but this was a quick test fit to see how it would all look!

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I then made a rough estimate of where they would go, and made quick work of applying Loctite superglue to the bottom-faces. Quickly, but carefully, I laid them down into place, using some tissue to wipe away any excess glue.

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You can still see some of the break-lines through the primer here. I needed to heat-shape a couple pieces to the shield before gluing so that it would be more flush with the curve. Ready to paint!

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Metallic silver aerosol paint was used. As you can see, I’ve painted and left the side ornaments separately so as to paint the underlying red first.

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Painter’s tape & brown craft paper (super cheap and less inky than newspaper!) I traced a bowl to get the circle I needed, and then worked outwards from there. It required a lot of smaller pieces of tape to get the curve but it turned out how I wanted.

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The last step was outlining the boat before gluing it down using a gold filigree pen. I made the mistake of continuing before taking off the craft paper, so this is actually upside down.. Lesson learned!

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Lominsan Cutlass by Sweatshop 202!

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Preemptive Strike_800wmSoulfire Photography


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